If you are a new scuba diver renting or borrowing a regulator, take note of the brand and model and how it feels.   This will help determine your likes and dislikes for when you decide to purchase.

So when you are shopping for a new or used regulator, do consider the following:

• ergonomics:  How it is designed and how easy it is  to hold.
• Does it use Non-corroding metals like titanium or chromed brass
• purge button: How easy is it to press when wearing exposure protection or not .
• external controls: Making those fine adjustment to the air flow.
• Diaphragm vs. piston mechanics. Most divers prefer diaphragm regulators than piston because of its smooth movement and fewer moving parts.
• Balanced vs. unbalanced regulators.  Do not buy an unbalanced regulator!!!!!!!
• Buy new when you can.  If you must buy used, ensure it can be serviced by your local dive shop.
• Look for a warranty on new or slightly used regulators.

-Fin For YourSelf

Related posts:

1. Innovative Scuba Concepts Recalls Diving Regulator Components Due to Drowning Hazard
2. Regulator Clearing
3. Search: Scuba Tank Regulator

Stay warm with a scuba wetsuit

To make your dive as easy and as comfortable as possible, choose a well-insulated wetsuit that fits your body and lets you breathe and move about easily. Most wetsuits are made of neoprene, a material that compresses and becomes less insulated the deeper you dive. If you plan to dive in deeper, colder waters, consider a thicker wetsuit. While a 1/8-inch thick neoprene suit is fine for 70-degree (or warmer) waters, a 3/8-inch thick suit is ideal for water with temperatures between 35 and 65 degrees.

• Dry suits: Dry suits with seals and straps at the neck, wrists, and ankles keep out excess water. Most are designed for use in water colder than 60 degrees and on deeper dives. You may want to add a hood and booties if you venture into waters below 50 degrees.

• Full-length wetsuits: A full-length wetsuit covers your arms and legs to the wrists and ankles. Scuba divers typically wear them in 65- to 72-degree waters.

• Full suits: One-piece full suits enclose you from the neck to the ankles (some are available with shorter legs). Scuba divers typically wear them in 60- to 65-degree waters.

• ¾ wetsuits : Short-sleeved, ankle-length, ¾ wetsuits are one-pieces worn in 72- to 80-degree waters.

• Shortie: Shorties are short-sleeved, short-legged, one-piece wetsuits worn in 72- to 80-degree waters.

See underwater with a scuba diving mask

Consider size and construction when purchasing a scuba mask.

• Scuba mask sizing: Masks are available in small, medium, and large sizes with smaller masks delivering the tightest seal. Low-volume scuba masks offer less distortion and greater peripheral vision, while double-flanged face seals keep your mask even more water- and airtight.

• Scuba mask construction: Most scuba masks are made of durable, lightweight plastic and non-allergenic silicone masks. Manufacturers often employ distortion-free tempered glass for lenses. Both single- and double-lens masks are available (the latter offer enhanced peripheral vision).

Fit your scuba fins

If you’re male, use your usual shoe size when choosing scuba fins. If you’re female, subtract one-half to two sizes from your usual shoe size. Next, pick a model ideal for your body type: larger, stiffer fins are best for divers with strong legs and hips, while the smaller, flexible fins are ideal for smaller divers. Both open-heel and full-foot fins are available.

• Open-heel scuba fins: Open-heel scuba fins are worn over neoprene booties.

• Full-foot scuba fins: Full-foot scuba fins are worn over bare feet or thin Lycra or neoprene socks. They are not designed for use in water colder than 70 degrees, near coral reefs, nor in other potentially abrasive settings.

Take the Pressure Off With Scuba Tanks

Packing sufficient air and monitoring its pressure are crucial when you scuba dive.

Choose a scuba tank

Your scuba tank should be lightweight, yet roomy enough to hold all the air you need on your dive. A 50 to 63 cubic foot tank is sufficient for shallow diving; the 80-cubic-foot tank is best on deeper (130-foot) excursions. There are also 100-cubic-foot tanks available for “heavy breathers” as well as pony bottles of 40 cubic foot or less (used as a backup air supply).

Regulate your airflow

Scuba tanks contain high-pressure air that must be converted to breathable air by scuba tank regulators. Monitoring your air pressure is an important prevention against the bends. Be sure to choose a hose and mouthpiece ideal for your use.

Buy buoyancy compensators (BC)

The buoyancy compensator (BC) keeps you and your tank afloat at varying depth levels. Pick a BC ideal for your size, shape, and diving style and test its valves and vents before use.

Accurately calculate decompression time

Dive computers track your decompression time at various diving depths, as well as stop times, breathing rates, total dive time, and other crucial information. Some even sound alarms when problems occur.

Related posts:

1. Scuba Diving Equipment – an overview
2. DrySuits for Scuba Diving
3. How to choose scuba diving equipment – selecting a scuba mask

Scuba computers are compact digital devices that perform the task of nitrogen management without the need of dive tables. Scuba computers combine a timer with a depth gauge.  These computers run software that computes the absorption of gases within the divers body.  Many recreational divers use scuba computers. While it is essential during training that all divers learn about residual nitrogen and decompression using dive tables, scuba computers will enhance the divers experience as it will perform nitrogen management.   It is important that the diver periodically review the dive tables in the event of computer malfunctions.

It is important to understand that  scuba computer does NOT plan any dives for the diver.  The planning is the responsibility of the one diving  because dive safety must be planned by the diver and not the computer.    All dive certification agencies should promote dive safety. 

Dive computers keep track of the following:

• depth and bottom time
• amount of nitrogen present in the diver's body
• alerts the diver if nitrogen levels are getting too high
• informs the diver to make decompression stops if necessary

Traditional dive tables use only maximum depth and time to calculate absorbed nitrogen.   The calculation assumes the diver was at the maximum depth for the entire dive.     This is where we find the benefits of dive computers.   Dive computers do not calculate nitrogen in the same manner used when using dive table.   Dive computers accurately calculate and track the depth allowing the diver to have longer bottom time.   More bottom time means longer dives.

When shopping for a dive computer do consider the following:

• Can the battery be replaced by the diver or must it be serviced to be replaced?
• Can the dive data be uploaded to a computer?
• Can the dive computer handle nitrox gas mixtures as well as air?
• Can the buttons on the computer be managed while wearing neoprene gloves?
• Is the computers interface to the diver's liking?
• Does the dive computer support decompression management?
• Does the dive computer support "time-to-fly" (time you must wait between your last dive and ascending to altitude or flying)?
• Does the dive computer use a well-tested algorithm for calculating gas absorption and decompression?  (Mares-Wienke Reduced Gradient Bubble Model (RGBM) Algorithm,  Buhlmann Algorithm, and etc.)

Always research the dive computer's brand and model before purchasing. Look for recognizable manufacturers and consult the diver magazines and consumer guides.

-Fin For Yourself

http://www.FinForYourSelf.com/store

Related posts:

1. Scuba Diving Computer Suunto D9 – James Bond Would Want One
2. Do Not Buy a Dive Computer That Does Not Have These Features!
3. How to Buy the Best Dive Computer For You